Step 1: break the water repellency
Dry Perth sand grows a waxy coating that makes water bead and run off — you can water daily and the root zone stays dry. A soil wetting agent strips that coating for a season. It's the cheapest, fastest improvement on this list: apply in spring and again in early summer.
Step 2: add clay to hold water
Wetter lets water in; clay makes it stay. Kaolin or bentonite clay amendments, dug into the top 150–200 mm, permanently change how sand holds moisture and nutrients — it's the difference between watering a sieve and watering a sponge. One thorough application per bed, once, is a decade's fix.
Step 3: feed the soil with compost
Compost and soil improver bring the biology — worms, microbes and organic matter that turn dead sand into living soil. Dig it through new beds generously and top up existing beds each year; in Perth sand it breaks down fast, so little-and-often wins.
Step 4: mulch to protect the work
Everything above evaporates away if the bed bakes bare. A 75 mm mulch layer keeps the moisture and biology you just built — lupin mulch doubles as a slow compost feed while it protects.